A few words from a double-starred chef

JOSH BOUTWOOD, corporate chef at the Bistro Group, was once bypassed when chefs were asked to talk at a prestigious culinary congress because he didn’t have his own restaurant.

Now, his restaurant, Helm, is the country’s first restaurant with two Michelin Stars. Meanwhile, Ember, Juniper, and The Test Kitchen, three more of his restaurants, are in the list of Selected Restaurants in the very first Philippine edition of the Michelin Guide.

In a scrum at the red carpet just minutes after receiving two Michelin stars, he told the press about how he planned to celebrate: “I can’t wait to leave, go to my restaurant, celebrate, open a bottle of champagne, and drink a shitload of beer, and just really have a nice night with my team.”

Responding to a question about how Helm got the two stars, he admitted, “I have no idea. I literally can’t believe it. In my head, it doesn’t make sense.” He cited his fellow star winners — Gallery by Chele, Inatô, and Toyo Eatery, each earning one star. “It doesn’t make sense to me why they’ve given me two. It’s something that I have to figure out and analyze.

“But right now, I just want to enjoy the moment, rather than go straight to figuring out what happened, why it’s happened to me, and not somebody else.”

Asked to think about the things he did right, however, he said, “I have no idea.” Ever the jokester, he said, “My personality and sense of humor.”

On a serious note, he says, “Helm is a very personal restaurant. Everyone that comes in is part of my home, just walking into my house. We put a lot of focus on making sure that the experience is the experience.”

Asked to pose for pictures with the trophy granting him his stars, we noticed that in the struggle to hold all of them, his other awards had been placed at his feet. “I am so proud of my teammates, who worked tirelessly to make sure that my vision is executed. I couldn’t do what I do without the remarkable people that work with me.

“All of this is for them. I’m here representing my restaurants. But at the end of the day, they are the heart and soul of what I do every day.”

THE 1^ST PHL MICHELIN GUIDE AWARDS NIGHT
The restaurants included in Michelin Guide Manila and Environs & Cebu 2026, the first for this country, were announced on Oct. 30 in a ceremony at the Marriott Grand Ballroom.

One hundred and eight establishments are listed in the guide, varying in distinction from Michelin Guide Selected Restaurants, Bib Gourmand Awards, and the coveted Michelin stars. The country had 74 Michelin Selected restaurants and 25 Bib Gourmand awardees. Eight were awarded one Michelin Star, and just one, Mr. Boutwood’s Helm, received two Michelin Stars.

The Guide says about Helm, “Led by chef Josh Boutwood, Helm presents a deeply personal expression of his half-British, half-Filipino heritage, infused with Spanish influences. His creative yet disciplined approach results in a modern tasting menu that’s intimate, precise and profoundly expressive. Each course a reflection of craftsmanship, identity and culinary evolution.”

In his acceptance speech, Mr. Boutwood was surprisingly calm, and even managed to joke: “Is this going to be like the Oscars, if I talk too long, the music’s going to come on?

“I was born into this industry, with both parents being restaurateurs and hoteliers. I had no other option but to continue what they did,” he said. “It has been my absolute love to do what I do.

“I couldn’t do what I do without all the teams behind me. My wife’s over there,” he said, and mentioned his children as well. Before going up on stage, he paused on the red carpet and looked for his wife, giving her a kiss before going up the stage to receive his award. “Without their dedication and support, I don’t think this would have been achievable. This has been a childhood dream, ever since I was young. To actually go onstage for the first time and receiving two stars is an absolute honor.”

LOVE LETTER TO THE PHILIPPINES
The country’s first one-starred restaurants include Asador Alfonso and Gallery by Chele, both by Chele Gonzalez, with Andres Osorio at Asador Alfonso and Carlos Villaflor at Gallery, respectively. Gallery by Chele, a longtime industry favorite, also received the Michelin Green Star, an award for sustainable gastronomy.

Mr. Boutwood and Mr. Gonzalez had the most restaurants that were honored in different categories.

Upon receiving his award for Asador Alfonso, Mr. Gonzalez said, “In my case, my heart is divided in two: I’m Spanish, but I’m also Filipino by heart.”

He continued after receiving his award for Gallery by Chele, “Gallery by Chele opened its doors about 13 years ago. Through the 13 years, hundreds of people, having passed there: this award is for all of them. This award is also for the Philippines. The inspiration of the restaurant is really the Philippines: dreams and everything that we do. We believe that Gallery by Chele is a love letter to the Philippines.”

Celera (by Nicco Santos and Quenee Vilar); Hapag (by John Kevin Navoa, Thirdy Dolatre, and Erin Recto — Ms. Recto also took home the Service Award for hospitality); Inatô (by JP Cruz); Kasa Palma (by Aaron Isip); Linamnam (by Don Baldosano who also took home the Young Chef Award); and Toyo Eatery (by Jordy Navarra, another industry favorite) round out the list of the inaugural one Michelin Star awardees in the Philippines.

Mr. Santos said upon receiving his award, “I think I’m just proud of all the hard work my team has put out for the last eight months since we’ve been open. For me, for us, this is just one star: to add to my 18 stars in the restaurant, waiting.”

Mr. Navarra, whose restaurant has consistently placed in Asia’s 50 Best List of restaurants and has consistently been one of the top restaurants in the country, said, “Salamat sa lahat (thanks for everything).

“Super happy to see everyone here celebrated,” he said. “Super proud of everyone. I’m happy to be here, and I’m happy all of us are here.” He thanked his team with some tears in his eyes. “We always say: ‘Mata sa langit, paa sa lupa (eyes on the sky, feet on the ground).’” This slogan was printed on his T-shirt, glimpsed underneath the Michelin-star embroidered jackets awarded to the winners.

STARS EXPLAINED
According to the Michelin Guide’s website, “One Michelin Star is awarded to restaurants using top quality ingredients, where dishes with distinct flavors are prepared to a consistently high standard.” This is summarized by the tagline “High quality cooking, worth a stop!” Meanwhile, “Two Michelin Stars are awarded when the personality and talent of the chef are evident in their expertly crafted dishes; their food is refined and inspired,” the guide continues. Two Stars in the guide means, “Excellent cooking, worth a detour!”

The Guide says, “We take into account five universal criteria: the quality of the ingredients, the harmony of flavors, the mastery of techniques, the personality of the chef as expressed through their cuisine and, just as importantly, consistency both across the entire menu and over time.”

Winners are decided by official inspectors who dine incognito. “Once several inspectors have eaten at a restaurant, they then discuss their experiences as a team in order to make a final decision.”

BIB GOURMAND, GUIDE SELECTION LIST
Two of the three special awards were mentioned earlier, the third honoree being Benjamin Leal of Uma Nota who went home with the Exceptional Cocktails Award.

The next two categories — the Bib Gourmand and the Selections list — feature a wide variety of restaurants, from humble carinderias and pansiterias to hotel fine-dining restaurants and some of the fanciest of establishments.

The Bib Gourmand selection awards restaurants that offer “exceptional food at moderate prices,” according to the Guide.

In Manila and its environs, these are Bolero, Brick Corner, Cabel, COCHI, Em Hà Nội, Hálong, Kumba, La Pita, Lampara, Los Tacos, Manam at the Triangle, Morning Sun Eatery, Palm Grill (Diliman), Pilya’s Kitchen, Sarsa, Some Thai, Taquería Franco, The Underbelly, and Your Local. In Cebu, the Bib Gourmand selections are Abaseria Deli & Café, CUR8, Esmen, Lasa, Pares Batchoy Food House, and The Pig & Palm.

As for the Michelin Selected Restaurants, numbering 74, these were recognized for “the quality of their cuisine, character of their dining experience, and overall consistency.”

The recipients were:
12/10
Abli
Aida’s Kitchen
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ATO-AH
Aurora
Automat
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Benjarong
Blackbird
BUTCHER BOY
Cantabria by Chele Gonzalez
Canton Road
Carmelo’s Steakhouse
Chie Chie’s Pancit Batil Patung
China Blue
Cirkulo
COCO
Cru Steakhouse
Deo Gracias
DIP
El Poco Cantina (Malate)
Ember
Enye by Chele Gonzalez
Esmeralda Kitchen
Fong Wei Wu
Fresca Trattoria
Ginza Nagaoka
Gordon Ramsay Bar & Grill
Goxo
House of Lechon
Iai
Juniper
Kamakura
Kei
Kodawari (Salcedo)
Lantaw (Compostela, Cebu)
Locavore (Taguig)
Lola Helen
Lore
Lusso (Legazpi)
Mamacita
Man Ho
Maya
Metiz
Mireio
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Now Now
Oak & Smoke
Offbeat
Old Manila
Origine
Osteria Antica
Pablo
Papillon
Pares Pares (N. Escario Street)
People’s Palace
Ramen Ron
Sala
Seva
Sialo
Socarrat
Spices
Steak & Frice
Summer Palaxe
Super Uncle Claypot
Tandem
Taupe
Terraza Martinez
The Test Kitchen
Txanton
Uma Nota
Umu
Yamazato

“This selection pays tribute to a new generation of Filipino chefs, and international chefs who have embraced the Philippines, drawing inspiration from local heritage, bold flavors, and heartfelt hospitality. Whether it’s fine dining or street-side eateries, our inspectors were truly impressed by the culinary authenticity and creativity found across the country,” said Gwendal Poullennec, International Director of the Michelin Guide in a statement. In a speech during the awards night, he said, “Filipino cuisine is bold, generous, deeply personal. It tells a story of heritage and innovation.

“What sets the Philippines apart is the new generation of chefs. Many are under 30 years old. Some honed their skills abroad, or right here at home. Together, they are shaping a new era for modern Filipino cuisine.” — Joseph L. Garcia