THE EPISTOLARY novel Les Liaisons Dangereuses, published in the 18th century, bore this warning from one of its main characters, the Marquise de Merteuil: 鈥淥lder ladies must never be crossed: in their hands lie the reputations of the young ones.鈥 In context, the Marquise was in the middle of plotting the downfall of a younger, naive rival.
Criselda Lontok鈥檚 fashion shows always start and end early. Her most recent show at Rustan鈥檚 Makati last week ended at least an hour before sunset. Some kids, of course, are used to evening fashion shows which turn into all-nighter raves, but we suppose Ms. Lontok鈥檚 fans, grandes dames, have more important things to do than pass out drunk in a cubicle somewhere. After all, their empires (or their husbands鈥) won鈥檛 build themselves.
Ms. Lontok鈥檚 Spring/Summer collection for Rustan鈥檚 present a lightness that tempers the gravitas of the woman who usually wears Criselda Lontok. The line is also current, as reflected in voluminous tops that have been seen on the Paris runways recently. Socialites Linda Ley, Yoli Ayson, Lilibeth Campos, Suzette Hahn-Lopez, Ruth Rodriguez, and Gina Mohnani all walked the runway at Rustan鈥檚. Bell sleeves, ruffles, and textured fabrics are all the rage in Ms. Lontok鈥檚 collection; as are bold — very bold — colors and prints: think hot pink tops, coupled with white pants printed with large pink roses. The overall effect is of a woman announcing her arrival without a word, but with a single look.
Ms. Lontok began designing for Rustan鈥檚 in 1983, but first began climbing that corporate ladder even earlier. Seeing that she鈥檚 been in the business for a long time, she keeps her mind fresh and her eye young.
鈥淚 always surf the Net, and I look at different magazines.鈥 Of course, she says, 鈥淚 don鈥檛 take [the fashions] as [they are]. I always adjust it to my clients, so they won鈥檛 be fashion victims.鈥
Designers don鈥檛 just sell garments. What designers really sell is a dream: how would you live your life in these clothes? Ms. Lontok says about the dream she sells: 鈥淓legance all the way.鈥 She does have a reputation of dressing some of Manila鈥檚 most powerful older women, who have, despite the constraints of well-bred tradition, been able to work and play. 鈥淚 want them to look pretty and elegant at all times.鈥
These women, of course, have managed to build their families as well, and all around the nation, a young woman is now looking at her lola or her mother, building the dream that if she plays her cards right, she too, can become a Criselda Lontok woman when she grows up.
Speaking about what the young think of her clothes, she said, 鈥淎t first they think that it鈥檚 only for the lolas and the mommies. But now, they鈥檙e thinking, 鈥業 can wear it.鈥 At least, they鈥檙e not looking to adapting to the lola fashions. They have their own, and they can find it here.鈥
At her age (it鈥檚 hard to ascertain; Ms. Lontok is as well-maintained as her clients), it鈥檚 surprising to find out that she has even expanded her line: Ms. Lontok now makes bags and shoes, the shoes with a decidedly polite but powerful stance, with expressive heels and buckles.
鈥淚t鈥檚 still going crazy,鈥 she said. Asked about why she has lasted so long in the business, she said, 鈥淚鈥檓 a very practical person. I come out with styles that are not really out-of-this-world.鈥
Asked if she ever plans to retire, she said, 鈥淣o — as long as I鈥檓 alive, as long as I鈥檓 strong.鈥 — Joseph L. Garcia
