The top dim sum in Hong Kong, picked by star chefs
NO PLACE in the world takes dim sum more seriously than Hong Kong. The mainstay meal is everything, whether combative weekend sport or exuberant multigenerational family happening. It鈥檚 also the chance to celebrate culture for anyone looking beyond the overloaded Lazy Susan. Even just-paroled billionaires can鈥檛 resist.
Dim sum鈥檚 roots date back more than 2,000 years to the days when China鈥檚 Silk Road was a busy trade route, and the tea houses that lined it began adding small, restorative servings of food. (鈥Yum cha,鈥 the Cantonese term for a meal of dim sum and tea, translates literally as 鈥渢o drink tea.鈥)
鈥淭he classic Cantonese yeast-risen and stuffed buns, known as bao, and the pleated shrimp dumplings known as har gow, are often the first part of the vast dim sum repertoire a young Hong Kong child eats,鈥 says Joe Ng, executive chef and partner of RedFarm and Decoy in New York.鈥淭hey are both the very heart of dim sum.鈥
When we asked, 鈥淲here can you find the very best dim sum in Hong Kong?鈥 our panel of passionate chefs pointed us to their favorites. The chosen spots include local canteens and multi-Michelin-starred fine-dining establishments where the rattle of pricey jewelry replaces the clatter of steam trays. There鈥檚 even TikTok-friendly chainlets where the whimsical buns are enough to make kids look up from their phone.
The list is by no means comprehensive. Local experts also shout out R霉n in the St. Regis Hong Kong and the newly opened Merchants in Central鈥檚 Forty-Five experience space. In other words, this is merely the start of a dim sum exploration around Hong Kong. Just be sure to brush up on the rules.
Disclaimer: Dishes named below may be seasonal or specials that don鈥檛 always appear on the menu.
LUNG KING HEEN
Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Sheung Wan
Must order: Steamed lobster and scallop dumpling
Of course the dim sum at the world鈥檚 first three-Michelin-star Chinese restaurant is exceptional. Lung King Heen has a striking harbor view to match chef Chan Yan Tak鈥檚 food. It鈥檚 the pick of former Hong Kong-based chef Jowett Yu, who appreciates the intricate flavors in the restaurant鈥檚 seasonal dim sum selection. 鈥淭here are different layers to this dumpling,鈥 he says of the seafood-packed delicacy. 鈥淓ach layer is distinct in its own right and it takes a tremendous skill to build a dumpling like this.鈥 He鈥檚 also a fan of the baked abalone puff with diced chicken.
鈥擱ecommended by Jowett Yu, former chef-owner of Ho Lee Fook, Hong Kong
YUM CHA
2/F, Nan Fung Place, 173 Des Voeux Road Central, Central, and other locations in Hong Kong
Must order: Hot custard molten buns
Yum Cha offers dishes from all over China, though you wouldn鈥檛 know they serve anything but adorable buns if you鈥檙e going by social media. 鈥淭here are great dim sum places, and there are dim sum places that make your Instagram-addicted friends happy. Yum Cha is both,鈥 says May Chow, who runs the kitchens at local spots Little Bao and Happy Paradise. There are a few locations including one in the conveniently located Central with brick walls and high ceilings.
The photogenic animal-inspired dim sum include barbecue piggy buns, fashioned with little pink noses and ears, and doggy rolls anchored by a stick of Chinese sausage. But Chow鈥檚 top order is the hot custard buns, a wonderful play on the classic steamed white buns with a sweet filling. 鈥淭he oozing custard buns with salted egg yolk are so good,鈥 she says.
鈥擱ecommended by May Chow, chef-owner of Little Bao and Happy Paradise in Hong Kong
CHINA TANG LANDMARK
Shops 411-413 4/F Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen鈥檚 Road Central, Central
Must order: Xiao long bao (steamed Shanghai buns) with crab coral
One of the world鈥檚 most stylish dim sum spots is this Cantonese restaurant designed by David Tang, with colorful hand-painted wallpaper and puffy, flower-printed chairs. Chef Mario Carbone calls it his favorite restaurant in the city. 鈥淭hey have locations around the world, but this is the one I love the most. Go for a long Friday lunch,鈥 he recommends. The China Tang Landmark kitchen is renowned for luxurious, high-style dim sum such as steamed buns with black truffle or a luscious seafood bisque-filled pork bun, which Carbone also orders. 鈥淚 like all the buns,鈥 he adds.
鈥 Recommended by Mario Carbone, chef-owner of Major Food Group, including Carbone in Hong Kong, Miami and New York
LAI CHING HEEN
Regent Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui
Must order: Lai Ching Heen trio
The restaurant formerly known as Yan Toh Heen has a coveted harbor view, but even that doesn鈥檛 distract from the dishes of two-Michelin-starred chef Lau Yiu Fai. 鈥淗e deserves three,鈥 says Ken Hom. 鈥淭his is my favorite dim sum restaurant in Hong Kong, hands down.鈥 He calls the food 鈥渟ome of the most innovative Cantonese cuisine in town. I am Cantonese, so I can鈥檛 help being a bit chauvinistic.鈥
Hom鈥檚 favorite version of the dim sum trio has three elements: golden crabmeat, mango, and avocado in puff pastry; golden bun with duck liver and taro; and crispy rice paper roll with seafood, peach, and almonds. 鈥淚t鈥檚 dim sum for the 21st century cosmopolitan Hong Kong, China.鈥
鈥 Recommended by Ken Hom, TV presenter, chef, and cookbook author
SOCIAL PLACE
2/F The L. Place, 139 Queen鈥檚 Road Central, Central
Must order: Charcoal custard buns
Walk past the Center office听 skyscraper, and you鈥檒l soon arrive at Social Place: You鈥檒l know you鈥檙e there when you see the ping pong table that anchors the sleek dining room. The dim sum is creative and similar in spirit to the Pac Man dumplings chef Joe Ng is famous for in New York. 鈥淭he Cantonese classic baos have been reworked into new-style buns,鈥 Ng says of Social Place鈥檚 specialty. 鈥淐harcoal custard buns decorated with streaks of gold on their black tops, and shiitake truffle ones fashioned so they look exactly like mushrooms, down to the earthy sheen and the cross hatch on top, are my two favorites.鈥
鈥 Recommended by Joe Ng, executive chef and partner of RedFarm and Decoy in New York
MAXIM鈥橲 PALACE
2/F, Low Block, City Hall, Central, and other locations in Hong Kong
Must order: Char siu sou (roast pork puff)
At the City Hall location of Maxim鈥檚 Palace, weekends are a time for Hong Kongers to line up for the chance to enjoy old-school dim sum, where the quality is good and the prices reasonable. 鈥淚t is a grand setting, and I like the atmosphere,鈥 says London-based chef Erchen Chang. 鈥淚t鈥檚 so nice to be there and look at the carts being pushed around by old ladies.鈥 She enjoys the char siu sou. 鈥淚 really like it because it鈥檚 in between sweet and savory, with nice buttery, flaky layers. It鈥檚 very comforting.鈥
鈥 Recommended by Erchen Chang, chef and co-founder of Bao restaurants in London
MOTT 32
Standard Chartered Bank Bldg., 4-4a Des Voeux Rd., Central
Must order: Soft quail egg, Iberico pork, black truffle siu mai
The name of this modern Chinese restaurant references 32 Mott Street in New York, where the city鈥檚 first Chinese convenience store opened in the late 1800s. Chef Lee Man Sing鈥檚 Hong Kong restaurant has outposts from Singapore and Seoul to Las Vegas; co-founder Matt Reid recently announced that a branch would be opening in London.
TV chef Ching He Huang has a hard time narrowing her choice to a single dish but picks the pork siu mai with quail egg. 鈥淎ll the dim sum is fantastic,鈥 she says. 鈥淏ut I鈥檝e never had quail egg with Iberico pork and black truffle before. Every mouthful is rich and delicious鈥攖he nuttiness of the truffle, the soft creaminess of the egg and the melting pork. It鈥檚 amazing.鈥
鈥擱ecommended by Ching He Huang, TV presenter and cookbook author
TIM HO WAN
Shop 12A-12B, Hong Kong Station Podium Level 1, IFC Mall, Central, and other locations in Hong Kong
Must order: Baked bun with barbecue pork
This dim sum chain started with a single Hong Kong restaurant over a decade ago, promising food that was made to order. There are now more than 80 locations worldwide thanks to the excellent quality-to-price ratio. London-based chef Andrew Wong always orders the signature baked barbecue pork bun. 鈥淚t鈥檚 like a choux pastry with a sugary topping. They are sweet and salty at the same time, with lots of sauce and filling. Tim Ho Wan just churns them out, and they are not easy to make. I used to do them at A. Wong, but it鈥檚 difficult to get the consistency, so I gave up.鈥
鈥 Recommended by Andrew Wong, chef-owner of A. Wong in London
CUISINE CUISINE
Mira Hotel, 118-130 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon
Must order: Pan-fried wagyu buns with pepper sauce
On the third floor of a Kowloon hotel, Cuisine Cuisine boasts a resplendent forest green decor with an eye-catching glass chandelier; the Cantonese menu is vast and the wine list is award winning. Chef Jayson Tang at the JW Marriott Hong Kong favors the wagyu buns with pepper sauce from the dim sum menu. 鈥淭he texture and flavor are a perfect match,鈥 he says. 鈥淭hose buns are pan-fried to crispy brown and inside remain soft, filled up with succulent waygu beef and pepper sauce, with a tiny bit of seaweed. It鈥檚 an exquisite dim sum that you don鈥檛 find anywhere else.鈥
鈥 Recommended by Jayson Tang, executive Chinese chef at JW Marriott Hong Kong
LUK YU TEA HOUSE
24-26 Stanley St., Central
Must order: Egg custard tarts
Buns and dumplings might dominate dim sum, but there are myriad dishes to try 鈥 including dessert. Chef Judy Joo has a favorite order at a singular spot in Hong Kong. 鈥淭ry to get a local to take you to this historic teahouse. No trip to Hong Kong is complete without a visit here. The upper floors are strictly reserved for those who have standing reservations.鈥 In fact, families have been meeting here for classic dim sum and tea since it opened in the 1930s. 鈥淭he egg custard tarts are so good here 鈥 reminiscent of the Portuguese pastel de nata, but smaller and very light and flaky with a creamy filling,鈥 she says.
鈥 Recommended by Judy Joo, chef, TV presenter and cookbook author
顿鲍顿顿贰尝尝鈥橲
Level 3, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., Central
Must order: Pork and shrimp dumplings with black truffle
Among the most fashionable eateries in Hong Kong is Duddell鈥檚, which takes up a couple of floors of the Shanghai Tang Mansion. British chef Tom Aikens, who previously had two restaurants in Hong Kong, says he loves the pork and shrimp dumplings with black truffle that have been on the salon鈥檚 menu; here鈥檚 hoping they return. 鈥淚 suppose it is the Chinese equivalent of surf 鈥檔鈥 turf,鈥 he says. 鈥淭he sweetness of pork and shellfish just go so well together. These have finely chopped pork with a clear broth of shrimp and truffle on top. The case is almost translucent. They are just so well made.鈥
鈥 Recommended by Tom Aikens, chef-owner of Muse by Tom Aikens in London
鈥 Bloomberg


