The Wholesome Table: even more so with plant-based dishes

WHILE The Wholesome Table is known for its organic food, it had not done a full plant-based menu until now.

This summer, in addition to its conscious dining options, they have released a full plant-based menu covering everything from appetizers to dessert. It’s not entirely vegan, but taking away an ingredient or two would make it so. Available since February, the limited season will stay throughout the summer — except for the bestsellers, which would then remain on the menu.

“We have a lot of customers who have been requesting vegetarian or more plant-based dishes,” Wholesome Table founder and former model Bianca Araneta-Elizalde said in a speech during the April 3 launch at their Shangri-La Plaza branch. “Here in Wholesome Table, I’ve always said (that) I never wanted to discriminate against a food group — if you’re carnivore, vegetarian, flexitarian — there’s always something here for you.”

The menu starts with Farmer’s Salad, made from Wholesome Farms’ harvest, a mix of mesclun greens topped with shredded carrots, red cabbage, edamame, cucumber, and cherry tomatoes, tossed in homemade roasted ses-ame dressing. The vegetables will differ according to the availability on their farm. For example, during our tasting, they included peppery sorrel. “Hopefully, by the end of this year, we’ll provide 100% of the produce (for their branches). That way, I can really control quality and really know how our vegetables and produce are grown,” Ms. Araneta Elizalde said about their new farm in Lipa. The salad, by the way, was one of the heftiest we’ve had: no lightness here; this will really fill you up.

Next came a Green Hummus with Roasted Eggplant (edamame hummus, chimichurri, and pickled onions with crisp, sour bread toast): the eggplant was cooked in a way that it resembled fish in look and taste, giving muscle to the curious mush. We could say the same about the Thai Crispy Rice: fried crispy arborio rice, cilantro, grilled shiitake, cucumber, and pickled onion.

Given options, we at the table decided to order different things and just switch and share. Both of us liked the Buddha Bowl: a savory dish with bagoong (fermented fish paste) rice, stir-fried vegetables, roasted sweet potatoes, chickpeas, sweet potato puree, curry sauce, and tamarind glaze. It was filling and complete and had a feeling of being nutritious without being too preachy. As for the Vegetarian Laksa, I liked it; my companion didn’t. It had coconut milk broth with pandan tofu, cilantro, basil, bell peppers, zucchini, and mushrooms, topped with bean sprouts with lime wedge. The broth tasted both nutty and creamy, with just enough kick to clear the nostrils: our seatmate disliked it for those same reasons.

We both had to skip dessert, unfortunately: a Panna Cotta with organic cream, vanilla, raspberry sauce, and blackberry jam, topped with chunks of golden mangoes.

THE WHOLESOME FARM; LIFESTYLE BRAND?

Ms. Araneta Elizalde discussed why they built a farm to supplement The Wholesome Table. “Honestly, it’s to bring down the cost of these goods [for the restaurants]. Buying organic is definitely much more expensive than conven-tional,” she said in an interview.

It’s the same reason why the restaurant is hard to replicate and multiply as a full-fledged chain. (It now has three branches: Shangri-La Plaza, Salcedo, and BGC; it previously had branches in Rockwell and Greenbelt). “It’s going to be a logistical nightmare… this menu in other places where we can’t access organic ingredients,” she said, while recalling that someone once urged them to open in Boracay. “I really see Wholesome Table just in the metro. Maybe Cebu — because there I’m sure you’ll be able to get organic ingredients.

“It’s not a concept that can be like a chain that opens everywhere,” she said.

However, there might be another way for wholesome dining to enter more homes: with the farm and the name, why not go the brand route? Think jars of peanut butter, and other healthy snacks (which they already have); but why not throw in a yoga mat or two? “I mean, that was always the goal, right? It’s a lifestyle. It’s more than just eating,” she said.

“We’ll see.” — Joseph L. Garcia